Choosing Your Bridal Fabrics
Written by Lisa Merton
Continued
from page 2
Dupion Silk,
also known as Shantung Silk, is a very popular bridal and
eveningwear fabric because of its texture, weight and colour
range. Dupion has a slightly stiff feel, but is not too heavy,
and is easily identified by the occasional “slubs”
or lumpy horizontal lines within the weave. It is possible
to cut dupion on the bias, but this is quite rare. Dupion
silk is most often used in fuller skirts with petticoats or
hoops underneath, and holds its shape well. Stiffening or
interlining also works well underneath A-Line skirts and bigger
gowns. Dupion is great for fitted bodices, and holds beading
and embroidery very well. It is very reasonably priced, around
the $20- $25 per metre mark, and therefore is widely available
in a huge range of colours, both solid shades and shot shades.
“Shot” colours look especially good in this fabric-
“shot” means two different coloured threads are
used in the weaving process, so that a pink thread is going
in one direction, and a blue thread going the opposite direction,
creating a purple colour once blended together. Dupion silk
can also be crushed or handwashed to soften and remove stiffness,
plus create a subtle textured crinkle effect, which is a great
new way to use this classic fabric.
Raw Silk,
often mistakedly confused with Dupion silk, is rarely used
here in Australia, and quite difficult to find. It is a lot
heavier than Dupion silk, with a much thicker texture and
many more “slubs” than dupion. It is best used
for suits and jackets (such as Mother of the Bride) and structured
dresses or skirts. It is quite bulky and doesn’t drape
well, and usually has only a limited colour range. Not really
suitable for wedding gowns.
Thai Silk
is a super fine, high quality silk similar in weight and feel
to Dupion but much smoother and crisper, and with no “slubs”.
It is more expensive than Dupion, and the colour range is
not usually as wide, but the quality is superior and the sheen
and vivedness of colours quite spectacular. Thai silk is best
suited to structured gowns and big, full ballroom skirts,
as well as A-Line skirts and fitted bodices. “Shot”
colours work splendidly. Fine Thai silk can be around the
$50-$70 per metre pricetag.
Georgette and Chiffon
are both lightweight and very sheer fabrics which are very
popular in layered gowns as an overlay, and also for wraps,
sleeves and sheer inserts of gowns. The best quality georgette
and chiffon is silk, naturally, although good quality polyester
and viscose versions are available. Silk georgette and chiffon
hold bright colours much better, drape very well and feel
much softer on the skin than the man-made options. Bias-cut
georgette and chiffon work very well, either with several
layers of the same fabric, or with a satin chameuse (also
bias-cut) lining underneath. To take full advantage of the
sheerness of the georgette or chiffon, layering of different
colours can achieve great effects when introducing complimentary
or contrasting hues.
Organza
is another very sheer fabric, but instead of being soft and
drapey (like georgette or chiffon) it is stiff. Organza comes
in silk, polyester, nylon, and other man-made fibres. Silk
organza is often used for wraps and overlays in wedding gowns,
as well as sleeves and sheer panels such as backs and neckline
insets. Because it is stiff, it can handle beading and embroidery
quite well. Organza does tend to crush because of its light
weight and stiffness, but if used correctly it can look fabulous!
Permanently crushed organza is increasingly popular for a
more alternative look. Organza with a shiny satin finish (called
satin organza) is a glossier version, still a little stiff
but softer in appearance and touch than regular organza.
Brocade
is a fabric that has a pattern or motif woven into the cloth,
often using different colours to highlight the design. Floral
brocades, swirl or paisley patterns, and geometric designs
are most popular. Brocades are traditionally fairly heavy
in weight, stiff to touch and best suited to structured gowns,
suits and jackets. Lightweight brocades or jacquard designs
in softer, drapier fabrics are also available. Cultural emblems
or symbols such as the Chinese Dragon are also used in brocades
to represent a country, provence or historical background.
Continues
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Choosing Your Bridal Fabrics
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For further information
on Culture Shock Bridal and Eveningwear please contact Lisa
Merton.
This article has
been reproduced on Wedding Central Australia with permission.
© Lisa Merton 2003. All Rights Reserved.
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