Choosing Your Bridal Fabrics
Written by Lisa Merton
Continued
from page 1
Satin is probably THE most
widely used fabric in bridal gowns, due to its glossy, glamorous
look and feel. Satin actually comes in many different forms,
and the word satin refers to the weave of the cloth. The fibre
used within that weave can be silk, polyester, viscose, nylon,
or a mixture of fibres. There are also different types of
satin weave, such as chameuse satin, duchess satin, crepe
satin and double-sided satin.
Therefore, some of
the various different types of satin are:
- Silk Duchess Satin
- Polyester Duchess Satin
- Viscose/ Silk Duchess Satin
- Silk Chameuse Satin
- Polyester Chameuse Satin
- Polyester Crepe Satin and so on…
Duchess Satin,
also known as Princess Satin, Delustred Satin and Bridal Satin,
is a heavy weight satin with one side shiny and smooth. It
can come in either 110cm width or 140-150cm width. The best
quality is silk, of course, and it comes mainly in pastel
colours, with various shades of white, ivory and cream, and
has a lovely pearly sheen. Duchess Satin works best in formal,
structured gowns with petticoats worn underneath, especially
A-Line silhouettes. It can be lined with a stiffening fabric
or interfacing (such as Shapewell) to help hold the shape
of the garment, as well as wearing a hoop underneath. Duchess
Satin is not suitable for slinky, bias-cut gowns as it is
too stiff. Beading and embroidery works very well on this
fabric as it has the weight and weave to support it.
Chameuse Satin
and Crepe Satin are both soft, lightweight and
very flowy and drapey, and work perfectly with bias-cut gowns.
“Bias cut” indicates the grainline or angle on
which a pattern piece is cut, and true bias is a 45 degree
angle from the selvege or edge of the fabric. Bias-cut garments
are great for tall girls with slim figures, but not so good
for girls with bigger curves, as it emphasizes hips and larger
busts. Chameuse satin is also used as lining in some gowns.
Silk Chameuse comes in a vivid range of colours, both pastels
and brights, and looks great layered or combined with other
fabrics such as beaded fabric or lace. Chameuse is very glossy,
with a high sheen. Crepe satin is not quite as shiny, but
performs similar. A “Sandwashed” finish can be
applied to both of these qualities, which gives a softer,
suede feel to the satin and removes some of the high gloss
(which can be more flattering on larger figures).
Double-Sided Satin
in silk is a truly luxurious fabric, works wonderfully cut
on the bias, and feels great to wear as the satin finish (smooth
& shiny) is on both the inside and outside of the garment
– a real treat!
It is generally heavier than chameuse, but not as heavy as
duchess satin, and feels soft, drapey and quite shiny.
Faille fabric
again refers to the weave of the cloth, and is recognized
by the fine rows of horizontal lines woven into the cloth.
Silk Faille is a stunning fabric to work with, as it is drapey,
soft and smooth but is not at all shiny. The sheen of the
silk gives a lovely glow to the fabric, and its matt finish
and slightly heavier weight is great for larger sizes. Silk
Faille can have the “Sandwashed” finish, which
gives it an even softer suede feel.
Continues
on page 3
Choosing Your Bridal Fabrics
Page 1
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2 - Page
3 - Page
4
For further information
on Culture Shock Bridal and Eveningwear please contact Lisa
Merton.
This article has
been reproduced on Wedding Central Australia with permission.
© Lisa Merton 2003. All Rights Reserved.
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